Sarköy and Nearby Treasures

Hey there, 

Until recently, I spent summers in Sarköy, a town in Tekirdag, Turkey, located along the Marmara Sea. This town holds a special place in our family. My parents met here when they were young and have most of their friend groups from those days. My grandfather used to be a town doctor here when public service was respected and doctors and teachers felt like they were contributing meaningfully to society. Those days might be over. In any case, Sarköy has changed significantly since the days of my grandparents and even my own childhood. Unfortunately, not for the better. 

My grandmother told me that she picked Sarköy for mandatory public service thanks to its proximity to Istanbul. At the time it took 7-8 hours to drive! Now with modern roads and cars, it takes about 3 hours from Istanbul.   

I recently passed through Sarköy and also visited some nearby villages and towns on the way. There is a road to turn on the highway from Istanbul to Tekirdag which will take you to Sarkoy. The unofficial name is Karistiran. The literal translation is the "mixer" due to the curvy roads until the destination.  Once you reach Sarköy, especially in the town center, I cannot help but think "Why?". The level of tackiness makes you wonder whether the people who live here or spend their summers hate this place. Alternatively, the people in charge might have an evil plan to destroy the town in every possible way, which is working.

The public beach is completely taken by kiosks, and there is a different kind of tasteless music coming from every direction. The old promenade is divided into a weird pedestrian road called "the love road", with pavements on both sides and a regular road for cars in the middle, each in a different color. The cafes and restaurant tables cover the pavements. You are expected to fly.

I am familiar with the locals and we have family members who spend about half of the year here. I often hear people complain about various issues or people. Accountability and long-term planning are rare qualities in Turkey. No one thinks they are part of the problem or that they haven't done enough to protect their environment. I feel like my parents, their friends, and our family live by seeing through the lens of past glory days, frequently referencing 30 years ago. I guess it would be unbearable otherwise. 

Nearby Villages

The best things about Sarköy are its location and its windy weather. You can escape the town and the heat easily.  

Greeks used to live in this area - most of the neighborhoods had a previous Greek name. From Sarköy onwards, the prominent towns are Eriklice (Heraklia), Mürefte (Miryofito), Hosköy (Hora), Gaziköy (Ganos) and Ucmakdere (Avdimio). Local Greeks left for Greece in 1923 and were replaced by the Turkish populations during the population exchange between Turkey and Greece. You can still see some Greek architecture and the impact of the vine and trade culture in the region.    

These towns and the roads connecting them are worth seeing. The road sometimes goes through the towns, or has the sea views on one side or has olive and walnut trees on each side. This time of the year (summer), all you can hear is the crickets! In some parts, I felt dizzy from the smell of thyme. This part of Marmara is a true wonder of nature and should be protected. 

Eriklice is our first stop. There is an Ataturk statute saluting us. I like to think of his spirit looking after this tiny and cute village. Several restaurants are lined up on the promenade. Nothing bothers the eye. Our frequent place is called the Marmara Restaurant, which used to be a tavern mostly visited by men of the village. The owner is a local called Mehmet. Over time, he welcomed families, couples, and friend groups to his restaurants extending its reach. He was a fine man, may he rest in peace. Nowadays, his son inherited his role and you can enjoy fresh fish and meat, as well as, simple, yet delicious side dishes and salads here.   

To my great surprise, we didn't go to the Marmara Restaurant this time. We tried a new one called 7 Masa ("seven tables"). The owner, who is also a local, has a vision to create a good restaurant with tasty and high-quality food. Our pasta with tomatoes and cheese was excellent. The beer and wine selection is carefully chosen. I have high hopes for this new gathering place.

We then drove through Mürefte, Hosköy, and Gaziköy until Ucmakdere. Mürefte is another beautiful town with a large and secluded yacht marina. By far my favorite spot here is Kutman Wine Bistro. Kutman is a winemaking family of four generations since 1896. You can watch the sea view and waves while chilling in their garden and sipping great wine. Nothing else is needed! We held a small ceremony at this venue more than a year after our marriage. Adnan Kutman, the owner, together with his son Tunc, kindly allowed us to celebrate here even though such an event hasn't happened here before. It was an evening to remember. 

My parents frequent a simple fish restaurant called Kara Huseyin Balikci in Hosköy. The couple who owns this place allows customers to bring their beer due to lack of alcohol in their establishment. They prepare whatever fish is available on that day. Kara Huseyin, the husband gives his name to the restaurant and catches the fish they sell - a productive gentleman. 200 meters away you see a more posh restaurant called Megali. Having come here many years ago, I was glad to see that they are still in business. 

Hosköy is the location of a country-famous wine brand - Melen Wines. Melen's young owner inherited the wine business from his family; however, he took it to the next level and created a well-known brand. It must take hard work and dedication. I feel very proud when I learn about Turkish families producing wine for generations; certain things require tradition carried over generations. Wine is one of them. Melen has a boutique shop where you can buy their wines by the sea. Their masterpiece is a winery built in the ancient monastery located in their vineyards. 

There are more relatively new wineries in the region such as Kalpak where you can enjoy wine tasting and tours about winemaking with an amazing terrace overseeing Marmara and Aegean seas on each side and Yükseltan, a place to enjoy good wine and beautiful sunsets.  

On the way back to Istanbul, we stopped at the Zencefilli Kahve in Ucmakdere, a good choice if you are passing by. The decoration is a mix of fun decor with Frida Kahlo painted on the wall and a classic village coffee house. A coffee house in a village is traditionally a meeting spot for men in the past. The lady who owns this place since last year brought a new voice. The people of the village seemed to be happy - there were 90 year old gentlemen drinking Turkish tea and complaining about the increased prices of vegetables. A nice change. The homemade juice served with Turkish coffee was fresh and delicious. 

The Ucmakdere Road is not for everyone. The Ganos Mountains salute the sea view. The road is curvy along high cliffs. Your risk appetite needs to be a little high. If you make it; it will be one of the most beautiful roads you'll see. Just when you think the sea view is over, the pine trees show up to make you appreciate their beauty.    

I hope to be back soon.    

Cheers,

Deniz