Singapore

Hello Hello Hello,

It’s been a while since I’ve had a chance to write—work has kept me busy with extra responsibilities. But while writing took a back seat, I had the chance to travel more. In 2024, I spent over a month in Singapore, and… this city has truly captured my heart. So much so that I’m seriously considering whether we should live there for a few years. My husband is understandably nervous because when I start thinking about something, well... let’s just say it has a tendency to happen.

I’ve been reflecting on why I like it so much. Sure, the weather is a happy escape from Berlin’s endless grey winters, though the humidity can also be hard. My hair clearly doesn’t belong here. I look like Hermione in the first Harry Potter movie. 

Maybe it’s the easy-going lifestyle, the amazing food, or the warmth of its multicultural vibe. Right now, I’m sipping a Tiger Beer by the riverside at Clarke Quay—a lively promenade filled with bars, restaurants, and good vibes. And as I sit here, I wonder if it’s also the music. Everywhere I go, I hear the 2000s and early 2010s pop hits—a nostalgic throwback to my university days and early career years. Party hard days. 

Nostalgia has a funny way of sneaking up on you. I once read that people tend to stick to the music they listened to in their 20s for the rest of their lives. While I still enjoy that music, my tastes have expanded in my 30s. Thanks to my husband, I’ve become a fan of bands like Metallica, RHCP, and System of a Down (better late than never). Singapore definitely needs to update its playlist a little. Anyway, whatever the reason, this city has left a serious mark on me, and I just can’t stop talking about it.

Singapore is a fascinating place with a predominantly Chinese population, who identify as Singaporean Chinese. Despite their cultural roots in mainland China, they have their own distinct identity. Since traveling here regularly, I’ve become increasingly curious about Chinese culture. My colleagues have even hinted that I’m ready for an introduction to Chinese medicine. (Apparently, step one involves food and customs).

Singapore is a tiny country with just one city—a city-state. (Fun fact: The only other two city-states in the world are Vatican City and Monaco. End of Trivia.) Most of the city's landmarks have been built in the last 50 years, thanks to Singapore’s impressive rise from a fishing village to an economic powerhouse. Skyscrapers and international businesses now dominate the landscape. The speed of this transformation is inspiring.

Geographically, Singapore is an island but has built two land connections to neighboring Malaysia. Their shared history is… complicated. Until 1965, Singapore was part of Malaysia, but then they separated. According to Singapore, they were kicked out; Malaysia says Singapore left on its own. They also debate about food. It’s a little reminiscent of the Turkey-Greece debate over who invented dolma and cacık (or tzatziki, depending on which side you’re asking). Interestingly, while Malaysia is predominantly Malay, Singapore is mostly Chinese. Both are multi-ethnic societies, but Singapore emphasizes equal rights for all its citizens.

Speaking of cross-border rivalries, both countries love to argue over who invented certain dishes—like yusheng, the prosperity toss salad. If you visit Singapore or Malaysia during Chinese New Year (which follows the lunar calendar, usually in January or February), you’ll see festive red decorations everywhere. In 2024, it was the Year of the Dragon, which supposedly sparked a baby boom because many parents wanted "dragon children." During this time, people gather to enjoy yusheng—a platter with finely chopped ingredients like salmon, ginger, crackers, and pear. Everyone grabs their chopsticks, tosses the ingredients in the air, and shouts wishes for wealth, health, and happiness. I loved the tradition so much that I brought a yusheng kit back to Berlin to celebrate with friends.

One of my favorite areas in Singapore is Chinatown. Its maze-like streets are perfect for exploring, with plenty of great food and souvenirs. Fortune Court is my go-to spot—a casual restaurant with excellent dishes. Nearby Club Street is packed with trendy cafes and restaurants. For a fantastic Argentinian steak, I go to Bocchinche. For Western food, Petit Marcel is a good option. And then there’s Maxi Coffee Bar, my beloved little nook. It’s a tiny spot where I love to sit by the window and enjoy their delicious oat milk coffee.

Walking around during the day can be brutal thanks to the humidity, but evenings are perfect. It’s common to see locals jogging, playing tennis, or unwinding in the cooler air. The MRT system is efficient and makes getting around a breeze.

Food, of course, is a highlight of any trip here. My favorite spots so far include Haidilao (where you can even get a free manicure while waiting for your hot pot), DRIM (kimchi pancake is life-changing), Imperial Treasure (pre-order the Peking duck!), and Jigger & Pony (home to some of the best cocktails in Asia). And I have to give a special shoutout to the food markets. Maxwell and Lau Pa Sat offer some of the best hawker fare, full of rich, earthy flavors. My go-to lunch is fish soup from Arcade. A colleague shared the recipe with me, though I haven’t tried it yet.

Singapore runs like clockwork. The rules here are strict but designed for the greater good. If you follow them, life can be incredibly smooth. I don’t know what happens if you challenge the system, but let’s just say this highly structured order played a big role in transforming the city into a rich, cosmopolitan hub. While I’m not a fan of authoritarianism, I can’t deny the results. 

There are so many tourist attractions here that it can get overwhelming if you're not into that kind of travel. But I have to hand it to Singapore—they’ve done an incredible job creating beautifully designed, artificial places. The flower music show, for example—it's a must-see, fun, and groovy. I also loved the Flower Dome and spent hours exploring different flowers and trees from around the world. I even had an aha! moment when I realized that the majority of the world’s wines come from Mediterranean or Mediterranean-like climates, like Australia, South Africa, and Chile. I mean, of course, I know about Mediterranean wine—I grew up with that. And I’ve tasted plenty of Australian and South African wines over the years, but I’d never really thought of the climate connection before.

If you want a break from the city’s hustle and bustle, the Botanical Gardens, especially the orchid section, are well worth a visit. Walking through the Rain Forest trail, I gained a new appreciation for how much trees protect us from the sun and humidity. It was noticeably cooler under their canopy. Honestly, we don’t deserve nature’s intelligence and beauty.

Travel Reads: The Art of Charlie Chan Hock Chye by Sonny Liew. I highly recommend this beautifully illustrated graphic novel. It’s a sweet and sour description of Singapore’s history.